The population of the 'sunny island' was in decline until a wave of craftspeople and green idealists breathed new life into it, says Oliver Lowenstein. Found this great article from the Independent, you can read it all here: ind.pn/1LNdfwg
is the traditional home of the Bornholm speciality Sol over Gudhjem: a smoked herring fillet on rye bread, topped with radish, dill, a little mound of salt, and a raw egg yolk. you can watch the artisans dive into the smoky chamber above an open fire and pull out rods hung with golden-smoked herrings, the so-called “Bornholmers”. The local hot-smoking technique is the reason why many old fishing cottages on the island have unusual pyramid-shaped chimneys. Eating freshly smoked herring while still lukewarm is special, and at £5.40 not too expensive. You can eat it at tables outside in the harbour as you watch the ferries go out to the tiny island of Christiansø. Gudhjem has often been judged the island’s most beautiful village, and it is a great place to break up a round-trip.
A short five-minute climb up the heather-covered hill, Bokul provides a fine view of the town’s red-tiled rooftops and out to sea. From the hill at the southeastern end of Gudhjem harbour you’ll be rewarded with a harbour view . You can continue along this path that runs above the shoreline 1.5km southeast to Melsted, where there’s a little sandy beach . It’s a delightful nature trail, with swallows, nightingales and wildflowers.